Art of the Hearth
Putting the Art and Heart into Baking
By: John O’Connell Jr, C.C, C.P.C
Bread has been a staple in many cultures for centuries, bread has been held in religion as a sacred symbol. Bread has been the staple food of the poor and the noble a like, and bread has even been used as a trencher or absorbent plate in the middle ages what we now know as a bowl or bread and butter plate in our modern ages. For centuries bread was fermented using the used grapes from wine, or the foam skimmed off the top of beer to begin the fermentation process. It was allowed to ferment developing that beautiful flavor that any true bread connoisseur has come to love and appreciate also known as organic acids (Lactic and Acetic). As the dough fermented under the bakers watchful eye, he stoked a hot wood fire under a stone making sure that the stone was red hot so the bread can develop a nice crust from the heat. But over time the simple ingredients of Flour, Salt, Yeast, and Water has been bastardized by the addition of chemicals and additives to sustain the life of bread. Additives that destroy the very beauty which is baking, cutting down fermentation time and baking time for convenience. The argument for the commercial whole sale bakers is it saves on labor time and labor cost; they continue that argument with our bread last longer. Look at Artisan bread, 90% of bread use something called a preferment to help sustain and enhance the flavor and life of bread. Sponge, Pâte Fermenté ,Poolish and Biga’s have been used for years before the introduction of Absorbic Acid and Potassium Bromate. In fact most Commercial Bakeries don’t even follow the rules of artisan baking, products are not scored or baked properly and some of the bakers don’t have the appreciation or passion for bread that a true artisan baker has. Now not all commercial bakeries are “anti artisan” bakers. King Arthur Flour in Vermont is an amazing resource for Artisan Baking and does a very nice product.
Getting into Artisan Baking is not hard at all. You just need Flour, Yeast, Salt and Water combine with a little knowledge, a baking stone, clean metal nuts and bolts, meat loaf pan, scissors, and the passion for baking. Not to forget the Digital Scale, and Oven; and your all set. There are a lot of resources and books out there that can get you on your way to baking real artisan bread in no time at all. I would suggest checking out books written by a good friend of mine and one of my mentors when it comes to bread baking Chef Ciril Hitz. Chef Hitz has been recognized as one of the top pastry chefs in North America and is arguably one of the best artisan bakers in the world, currently he serves as one of the Department Chairs of the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. I would also check out Chef Peter Reinhart another JWU chef instructor who has one numerous awards including a James Beard Award for Best Cookbook. There are also many classes you can take at different schools around the country.
Once you catch the bread baking bug you’ll never go back to processed loaves again. Don’t have the time to bake, support your local artisan bakers. Till next time: MAKE BREAD NOT WAR!!!
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